44 North Brentwood Boulevard Clayton, MO
Basking in a buttery revelry was the sea bass over corn and asparagus risotto with smoked tomato butter. At first bite, butter, then flakey ocean flesh, then creamy risotto, sweetness from corn, and crisp-tender bites of asparagus. A nice citrus flavor tinged the whole dish, preventing it from entering “too much” territory.
44 North Brentwood Boulevard Clayton, MO
A tour of the best offerings begins with the hamachi-avocado ceviche. Thinly sliced wisps of ever-so-delicate raw hamachi are drizzled with velvety Meyer lemon vinaigrette the shade of a pale yellow buttercup. Crescents of creamy avocado, dainty microsprouts and sweet green peas are layered and placed just so over the fish. The dish is light and bright yet luscious and inviting. By drizzling the acid over the fish instead of marinating it, the texture of the flesh remains tender, not “cooked” tough. It’s very pretty to look at, too.
8406 Natural Bridge Road Saint Louis, MO
The saganaki is the best I’ve had in town – and Spiro himself came out to our table to explain the history behind the pine resin notes in Greek wines Sea bass with corn and asparagus risotto. The hunk of Kasseri cheese, in its light coating, takes on a delicate, crisp crunch while sautéing on a hotplate beside the table. After a couple flips, then a dousing of brandy, the flame-kissed cheese is extinguished with a squeeze of lemon and rendered a gooey delight. It’s melty, crisp and has a subtle tartness.
4356 Lindell Blvd St. Louis, MO
From the small plates side of the menu, a single seared sea scallop in a mustard sauce with scallions sounds simple enough, until it arrives sealed in a tiny canning jar and you’re instructed to unscrew the top to release a puff of cedar smoke pumped into the jar by some kind of smoke gun contraption. Now that’s whimsy. It’s also delicious, though the impression of cedar was barely distinguishable.
957 Waterbury Falls Drive O'Fallon, MO
Fresh Scottish salmon en papillote was delivered by the chef himself, who proceeded to slice open the parchment paper pouch, releasing a rush of fragrant steam from the slivered leeks and fennel, chopped tomato and sauce of white wine, lemon and olive oil. The whole dish was beautiful to behold, joyous to eat.
10425 Clayton Road Frontenac, MO
A small plate of tagliatelle is in a porcini mushroom broth, aromatic with warm spice (nutmeg?) and made even earthier with healthy slices of truffles. Pair it with bruschetta and a salad for a well-rounded, lighter meal.
1130 Town Town , MO
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