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— Travel + Leisure · Guide · created over 2 years ago
There's a fresh breeze blowing through the islands, as a generation of upstart chefs, artisans, farmers, and food lovers take Hawaiian cuisine back to its roots—and into a bold new future. By Peter Jon Lindberg. Excerpted from "Hawaii's Next Wave," Travel + Leisure, May 2012. http://tandl.me/PhPRead more...
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At Village Burger, next to an Orange Julius in a Waimea shopping center, not only is the beef local (Hawaii Ranchers red veal; Kahua Ranch Wagyu beef), but so are all the trimmings: Kekela Farms baby greens, Nakano Farms tomatoes, Hawaii Island Goat Dairy chevre; Hamakua mushrooms.
The ahi katsu at He'eia Pier is delicate and flaky, brightened with fresh scallions and spiced with surprisingly nuanced teriyaki sauce. Chef Mark Noguchi's marvelously elemental luau stew—slow-cooked pork, onions, and taro leaves—could make a Hawaiian grandmother weep.