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T+L's Hawaii's Next Wave

Travel + Leisure · Guide · created over 2 years ago

There's a fresh breeze blowing through the islands, as a generation of upstart chefs, artisans, farmers, and food lovers take Hawaiian cuisine back to its roots—and into a bold new future. By Peter Jon Lindberg. Excerpted from "Hawaii's Next Wave," Travel + Leisure, May 2012. http://tandl.me/PhP

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  • Bo Bun Hue - Spicy Beef And Pork Soup at The Pig & The Lady

    At this lunch stand, the bon bo Hue—the lusty, spicy noodle soup from the chef's father's hometown of Hue—is one of the finest outside Vietnam. Look serious about it and the chef will drop in a slow-cooked pig's trotter.

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    Sashimi at Mitch's Fish Market & Sushi Bar in Honolulu, HI

    Troll the industrial district near the Honolulu airport to find Mitch's, a hole-in-the-wall fish market that hides one of the city's top sushi bars.

  • Pad Kee Mao at Opal Thai Food in Haleiwa, HI

    Get a fabulous, fiery pad kee mao (drunken stir-fry noodles) at Opal Thai, a bare-bones surfers' hangout in Haleiwai run by Bangkok-born chef Opal Sirichandhra, who started with a food truck before going brick-and-morther in November 2011.

  • Tuna Poke at Kahuku Superette in Kahuku, HI

    You'll find a soul-stirring tona poke made by a Korean lady at the back of the Kahuhu Superette, a dingy-looking North Shore grocery store.

  • Rib Eye Steak at Allen's Table in Kamuela, HI

    Chef Allen Hess's grass-fed Big Island rib-eye is damn near perfect, with a distinctly buttery character. "That's because we finish the beef on avocados," he says, flashing an impish smile. He is on to something. The beef is delicious.

  • Hamburger at Village Burger in Waimea, Big Island

    At Village Burger, next to an Orange Julius in a Waimea shopping center, not only is the beef local (Hawaii Ranchers red veal; Kahua Ranch Wagyu beef), but so are all the trimmings: Kekela Farms baby greens, Nakano Farms tomatoes, Hawaii Island Goat Dairy chevre; Hamakua mushrooms.

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    Hot Dog at Hank's Haute Dogs in Honolulu, HI

    In his parents' hometown of Honolulu, Henry Adaniya serves hot dogs that are far, far better than they need to be. The Hawaiian is topped with pineapple relish, passion fruit mustard, and Maui onions.

  • Ahi Katsu at He'eia Pier General Store & Deli in Kaneohe, HI

    The ahi katsu at He'eia Pier is delicate and flaky, brightened with fresh scallions and spiced with surprisingly nuanced teriyaki sauce. Chef Mark Noguchi's marvelously elemental luau stew—slow-cooked pork, onions, and taro leaves—could make a Hawaiian grandmother weep.

  • Tangerines at KCC Farmers Market in Honolulu, HI

    Turn up any Saturday at Honolulu's crazy-popular KCC Farmers' Market and you'll be floored by the range of local ingredients on offer: tropical rambutan, sea asparagus, wild mushrooms, bitter melon, tangerines, taro, and Kona coffee beans.

  • Flatiron Steak at Town in Honolulu, HI

    Chef Ed Kenney's flatiron steak is served with local watercress and dense, chewy coins of fried paiai, or mashed taro root, at this Honolulu canteen that specializes in curious, local ingredients. Even the bartenders get in on the act.