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— Grub Street · Guide to New York · created almost 4 years ago
New York pizza isn’t what it used to be. It’s better. Better than in its slice-joint heyday in the fifties. Better than anything Gennaro Lombardi pulled out of his coal oven at the turn of the last century. Better, we’d venture to say, than it ever was. Here are our 20 favorite places to sample the goods.Read more...
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The Pure Bliss manages to support the weight not only of carefully distributed splotches of creamy ricotta, tangy tomato sauce, and pungent pesto, but also of grated Pecorino and melted fontinella, a domestic fontina-like product they’re very fond of here.
Baked in oil-slicked pans until the edges crisp up a little, the pies are topped with inventive, often seasonal ingredients but our favorite is the simple but unfathomably satisfying Pomodoro, a sweetly intense slick of tomato, olive oil, and salt.
Luzzo’s serves what its menu calls pizza Napoletana, but it’s not what you might think. Like the Roman, it’s uniformly thin and crisp with only a modest cornicione, yet it has the silky, tender, inviting mouthfeel of the Neapolitan minus that style’s puffy, sometimes heavy chew.