— Metromix New York · New York Top 10 Guide · created over 2 years ago
While everyone may consider Clinton Street Baking Company’s flapjacks to be the gold standard in the city, there are griddle cakes outside that five-hour brunch line that are just as worthy. And unlike your mom’s, these varieties aren’t limited to chocolate chip, blueberry and banana. So instead of heading to IHOP to get your pancake quick fix, check out one of these haute hot cakes around the city.
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Though imitators abound, Sarabeth’s lemon-ricotta pancakes are the real deal: five pillowy pancakes that waft of zesty lemon but boast a subdued tang that’s more savory than sweet. Chalk it up to the balance of ricotta, which provide a creamy texture that’ll melt in your mouth. The key to keeping these hotcakes light as air is folding in the baking powder and egg whites, so as to prevent the dish (and you) from being weighed down by dense ricotta. They’re topped with powdered sugar and served with Doerfler Farms maple syrup, plus a side of fresh berries—blackberries or raspberries, depending on what’s in season—that elicits a fruity acidity. ($15.50)
The only thing that’s Dutch about this puffed pancake is that it’s so large and filling you can split it (and its cost!) with someone else. Though it’s nothing like its huge thin, flat brethren served up in Amsterdam, the name is meant to imply that this isn’t your traditional stack, but rather a singular sensation cooked in the oven—a function of necessity, given the limited real estate of Prune’s teeny kitchen that prohibits the use of several burners required for flipping conventional flapjacks. Instead, expect a soft, airy cake that tastes pretty much like a fluffy Madeleine cookie with four pear slices baked in for subtle sweetness. It’s served with maple syrup and two slices of smoky Canadian bacon, both of which are, indeed, authentic. ($14)
Considering chef-owner Chris Santos is known for his quirky, creative menu items (French onion soup dumplings, anyone?), these caramelized banana pancakes seem pretty mundane. But wait, there’s a twist: The addition of vanilla bean and vanilla extract to the batter lends a sweet softness to this short stack of five silver dollars. The fragrant flavor is also the first thing you taste before it gives way to the fruity sweetness of sliced bananas that have been sugared and sautéed. It’s a good thing the maple syrup is served on the side, since you likely won’t need it: The heap of soft caramelized bananas, crunchy candied pecans and sprinkled powdered sugar on top render additional sugar near useless. ($8)
For many, pancakes evoke childhood memories, and GETE owner Carrie Levin's concoction is no different: This single, large four-grain apple pancake is modeled after a German apple pancake she would always order at brunch with her grandparents while visiting them in Westchester each summer. She fills her version with Granny Smith apple slices for tartness, tops it with homemade apple-raisin compote and a dollop of velvety sour cream sprinkled with cinnamon, and insists that it’s best eaten with your hands, however messy that may be—a fork only flattens the fluff. Either way, you’ll want to smother the thick, grainy pancake in ethereal strawberry butter for a sweet, acidic snap. ($10.25)
Owner Ron Silver admits that on first blush these sour cream pancakes piled high with sliced strawberries and bananas are “kind of a snooze.” But why reinvent this edible wheel if the inspiration not only works but also came from the father of American cookery? By adapting the pancake recipe of James Beard, Silver’s “American cooking hero,” he’s tweaked the dish into a modern classic by subbing sour cream for half of the milk originally called for. In this instance, the sour cream acts like heavy cream, lending a smooth, creamy texture and a slight tanginess to the thick fluffy flapjacks. ($12)
Yes, the same cultish wild Maine blueberry pancakes from Clinton Street Baking Company can be had for a fraction of the wait at its eco-minded sister restaurant uptown, but why not live a little and try something different? Adventurous palates will be handsomely rewarded for sampling this hearty take on the potato latke that changes seasonally (in summer it’s made with salmon and caviar or ramps, onions during spring, and root vegetables in the fall). The three round griddle cakes resemble oversize hash browns, with the celery root lending a rustic flavor and depth. Smother ‘em in velvety sour cream or full-bodied apple sauce that’ll cool the hot cakes—but certainly not your jets. ($12)
By design, everything about Norma’s, in the posh Le Parker Meridien hotel, is decadent and over the top (see: the $1,000 lobster frittata). These plate-size hot chestnut pancakes are no exception. The two hulking hotcakes are topped with soft candied chestnuts nestled in a brown sugar sauce and sprinkled liberally with powdered sugar. Though the fluffy, filling pancakes impart a spicy, smoky flavor that complements the hearty profile of the chestnuts, the sugary sauce that saturates the dish at its core made it sweet enough to be classified as a dessert on the breakfast spot’s Restaurant Week menu—and that’s not a stretch. ($20)
