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A fire-engine-red brick oven greets you as you step into the dining room, followed by a panoramic view of plaid-bedecked hipsters grazing in their native habitat. The pies here are portioned for personal consumption, but a better bet is to order several for the table to sample the full range. Overall, the pizza is quite good, maybe a half-step below some of the city’s best, but the strength lies in the quality of the toppings and their creative combos. Cleverly named pies like the spicy Axl Rosenberg (tomato, double garlic, mozzarella, mushrooms, jalapeño, spicy sopressata) and Cheeses Christ (black pepper, mozzarella, taleggio, parmigiano, heavy cream) work well. The menu also offers a wide selection of impressive non-pizza bites, with an emphasis on proteins like roasted marrow bones and veal sweetbreads.